A wonderful article about Citrus from Pacific Horticulture

25 Jan

I recently met a new cousin who lives on the opposite side of the world in Australia and is just a few days over one year old. He eats solid food like a champ, but is so smitten with mandarins, specifically, that when he sees a tree pregnant with the round, juicy fruits he holds out both hands and grunts ferociously, leaning his whole body weight forward in his mother’s arms. Unfortunately—or fortunately—depending on who you are in this story, they have a citrus tree in their back yard. So this scenario plays out pretty regularly.

When citrus season rolls around each winter I, too, find myself reduced to grunts and leaning forward with both hands to greedily grab at what I see. Gorgeous fruits lay waiting for me on every aisle of the produce section and in every stall of the San Diego farmers market. I should probably try my hand at growing citrus myself, but I would likely be paralyzed with having to choose just one or two. So I resolve my dilemma by regularly recommending my favorite varieties to friends and I promise sincerely to stop by and see how things are going—hands outstretched.

Long ago, I more or less stopped categorizing citrus in any official or botanical way; it just got too difficult. For example, ‘Rangpur’, commonly called Rangpur lime, looks like a small orange, tastes like a lime, and is said to be a cross between a mandarin and a lemon. What to do? “All citrus available today is a result of breeding or mutations from three original species: the citron, the pummelo, and the mandarin,” says David Karp, an Associate in the Department of Botany and Plant Sciences at University of California, Riverside.

Since citron (Citrus medica) and pummelo (C. maxima) aren’t particularly common, I generally go with flavor. Here is a loose categorization of a few of my absolute favorites. All are delicious, but I have a preference for unique specimens where possible. If you are going to go to the effort of growing or obtaining these choice citrus, you might as well have a showstopper on your table.

Mandarins
‘Seedless Kishu’ and Tahoe Gold™ are two of my favorite mandarin (C. reticulata) varieties. ‘Kishu’ ripens early in the season and is about as petite as they come with a diameter around the size of a half dollar. It is delightfully sweet, easy to peel, and generally seedless.

In contrast, Tahoe Gold™ ripens later in the season and has what I consider to be the quintessential flavor in a mandarin with a perfect balance of acidity and sweetness. These two would make a fabulous pair in a home garden.

Limes
The world of limes (C. aurantiifolia) offers some of the most unique offerings in the citrus lineup—some of which aren’t even true limes. Rangpur (C. ×limonia) looks exactly like a tangerine with orange skin and deep orange flesh, but one bite and your puckering lips reveal the secret—a unique little citrus with a lemon-lime flavor.

Australian finger lime (C. australasica, syn. Microcitrus australasica) is one of the recent darlings of the culinary world. They are about the size and shape of a pinky finger and when cut and squeezed reveal tiny, firm bubbles of tart lime juice. They are most commonly green in the United States but are also available in gorgeous pinks and reds.

Oranges
Speaking of pink and red, blood oranges (C. sinensis) have deep, beautiful, ruby flesh and a slightly more complicated, sweet flavor than the typical orange. There are three common varieties: ‘Tarocco’ produces the largest fruits; ‘Sanguinelli’ (or ‘Sanguinello’) has a unique flavor; and ‘Moro’ has the deepest red flesh and juice.

Lemons
Oddly enough, since it tastes exactly like the common ‘Eureka’ lemon (C. ×limon), one of my absolute favorite citrus is ‘Variegated Pink’, a sport of ‘Eureka’. When sliced, the exotic green and yellow tiger-striped skin reveals pale pink flesh. This is a fruit with some sass. The child in me can’t stop squealing about this one, while my adult side enjoys putting up lemon honey concentrate, an old-fashioned winter elixir that can be used for just about anything throughout the winter season, from curing colds to party refreshments.

Lemon Honey Concentrate

In a small jar, layer thinly sliced lemons (2 or 3) with 1 cup raw honey, finishing with honey to cover. Seal jar with lid and place in the refrigerator for at least 8 hours. The lemons will soften and the honey will take on a loose jelly-like consistency.

Lemon honey concentrate will keep for several months refrigerated.

Uses:

•   Spoon a tablespoon or two into boiling water for a warming winter tea.

•   Stir into sparkling soda or top with champagne.

•   Add to plain yogurt or ice cream.

•   Baste roast chicken or pork, or add to a finished sauce.

•   Drizzle over cornbread or flatbread.

•   Mix with white wine vinegar and olive oil for dressing winter salads.

Variations:

The concentrate can also be made with mandarins, limes, oranges, or a combination of citrus. Play with different types of honey for a stronger or milder flavor and add spices, such as ginger, cinnamon or cardamom, before or after preserving, depending on your desired use.

16 Jun

I am reposting this blog because I like it so much and it really applies to many of my clients!

Gardening Made Easy

I love gardening. Almost no chore is too much trouble (with the exception of French intensive trenching) if I can make my little garden look better, be healthier, or produce more. I love to putter and pull weeds, deadhead, and prune. However, not all people share my passion. For some, my husband for example, gardening is pure torture. This column is dedicated to those people.

If you hate, loathe, and despise spending time in the garden, I want to share a few simple tips for making your misery more palatable. The necessity of mowing every Saturday can be daunting task to face. So if you can afford it, hire a mow and blow crew to take care of the lawn. Check with your neighbors to see who they recommend or try somebody from the Yellow Pages of the phone book. And don’t accept the first price they give you. If your lawn is small, easily accessible and in fairly good condition, do a little bargaining. On the other hand, if your lawn is on a steep hillside, expect to pay a little more.

Next, install a good irrigation system. When established landscape plants have water applied correctly, they will thrive. There is no such thing as a “set it and forget it” irrigation clock, but the new controllers are smart. On installation they are initially configured to the type of soil and grade of your yard and then are continuously upgraded, via internal computer, for weather conditions for your specific location. These new controllers not only do a better job of applying water, they will save money on your water bill. All new landscape installations are required by local and state building codes to have smart controllers.

The third thing I recommend is to replace any “fussy” plants in your landscape. If you have roses and they always seem to look bad because of fungus disease or insect pests, yank them out and replace them with something colorful and hardy. To find out if a particular plant is successful in your location, check to see what CalTrans is using in the median strips and along the freeway. The state can’t afford to spend a lot of time on maintenance or replacement, so they use landscape plants that are tried and true.

Here is a short list of “bulletproof” plants that work in almost all soil types; raphiolepis, agapanthus, lantana, pittosporum, plumbago, Salvia leucantha, nandina, and lonicera.

My last recommendation is to find someone to help with your dreaded garden chores. Any task will go by more quickly and be more pleasant if you have company. As the old saying goes, “Many hands make light work.” And who knows, if your time spent in the garden is more pleasant, you make even begin to like it! Although I don’t hold out much hope for my dear spouse….

June 14, 2012
By Kim Haworth,
San Bruno, CA

An excellent short article about soil. Well worth the 5 minutes it will take to read it!

15 May

Soil Biology Basics

MAY 9, 2012

in SOIL HEALTH

by Joe Magazzi

It is always difficult to understand concepts that we can’t see. Most landscapers understand the importance of healthy visible landscape ecology in terms of plants, trees and turf; the bees that pollinate them; etc. Many professionals employ practices that help this ecology naturally thrive, and this leads to a healthier landscape with less disease and fewer pests. What is often ignored, however, are the practices that increase and support the other ecology – that is the soil microorganisms below ground that are invisible to the naked eye but are as (or even more) vital for the healthy growth that we can see above ground.

We are just beginning to have a more complete understanding and characterization of this very complex ecosystem. It is estimated that one gram of soil contains one million fungi, and one billion bacteria. Of those one billion bacteria, estimates are that a mere 0.5% of soil bacteria have even been discovered or identified to date – a measure of the complexity of the soil food web that we have yet to discover. New genetic methods that allow much quicker and more thorough identification of new species are now emerging and they reveal a much more complex ecosystem than previously thought. This research is helping us “see” how invisible soil microorganisms provide vitally important support to plant, tree, and turf growth and health.  Most importantly for landcare professionals, our increased understanding of how to exploit and use these natural relationships is leading to new best practices that are more sustainable, environmentally sound, cheaper, and easier without the sacrifice of health and quality.

The Soil Ecosystem

Much of our understanding of the soil ecosystem has been described through the research and the teachings of Dr. Elaine Ingham and the concept of the “soil food web” that she has made famous. Dr. Ingham breaks soil biology down to what she terms “trophic levels”. The first trophic level is made up of the primary producers, that is the photosynthetic sources that turn the energy from sunlight and carbon dioxide into sugars or energy for the plants and the entire soil food web (usually a plant or tree, but photosynthetic bacteria and algae may also be included in this group). The second trophic level consists of the decomposers and mutualists: non-photosynthetic bacteria and fungi. The third trophic level is made up of the shredders, predators, and grazers (nematodes, protozoa and some arthropods), and the fourth and fifth levels are made up of higher-level predators.

All elements of this system, including plants, trees, and turf, work together through very complex interactions. Organisms in one trophic level are dependent on organisms in both lower and higher trophic levels. This article focuses only on the interactions of the bacteria and fungi that comprise the first two trophic levels. Understanding, and then building and maintaining, these two levels helps the entire soil food web and results in better and healthier turf, plants and trees – and does so in a much more sustainable manner than conventional land care methods. First, let’s explore the relationships between organisms in the first two tropic levels.

The Roles of Bacteria and Fungi

The benefits that soil microbes provide to the plants and trees are numerous. In a very basic sense, the bacteria and fungi provide nutrients to plants and in return, a plant will provide sugars through their root exudates for consumption by soil microorganisms. In fact, the function of the soil biology is so important to the plant that it will give up almost half of its photosynthetically produced energy to the soil life. This relationship, however, is much more complex than just a sugar for nutrients bartering system. Here are some of the major benefits that bacteria and fungi provide for plants and trees:

1) Providing and cycling carbon and nutrients. Bacteria and fungi are the primary decomposers in the soil.  If they weren’t present, we would be standing on a giant pile of dead plant and animal matter that never breaks down. The carbon and nutrients that make up all living matter is constantly recycled through the actions of the soil biology. Also, the microbes in the soil are responsible not only for the detoxification of harmful compounds such as many herbicides that are used in conventional horticulture, turf care, or agriculture, but also for naturally produced toxins that would otherwise accumulate and inhibit growth.

2) Retaining and delivering nutrients and water. The bacteria and fungi, along with the organic matter that is produced as a function of the actions of soil biology, are the retention and delivery system of the soil – that is they act like the soil’s plumbing system, or as the stomach for a plant. Microbe populations grow to the capacity of their environments. As nutrients are added (through fertilization, composting, mulching etc.), microbes will reproduce and the carbon, nutrients, and water will be locked up in their cell bodies. As the nutrient and water supplies start to decrease, microbes begin to die and re-release these components, acting in a sense like a living buffering system. Bacteria and fungi also live on and in the root system and inside the plant or tree itself. Fungi have complex, branching systems of hyphae that act like a plumbing system to transport nutrients and water that would otherwise not be accessible to roots. In addition, the movement of the organisms in the soil (including higher level organisms such as nematodes and worms) acts like a transportation system moving vital compounds into the reach of the root system.  When nutrients run low, trees and plants will actually exude compounds through their roots to “recruit” fungi and bacteria that are able to provide for them in a mutualistic manner.

3) Promoting plant and tree growth. In an indirect manner, plants that are “fed” through the above actions of soil microbes are healthier, grow better, and produce more flowers and are therefore more fertile and attractive. However, soil microbes also contribute to plant and tree health in a much more direct manner. Bacteria and fungi actually produce plant hormones that stimulate plant growth, including all the major groups of plant hormones: gibbrellic acids, cytokinins and auxins. Maintaining or adding healthy soil biology is a great way to speed up germination and natural, healthier growth without the side-effects seen with synthetic hormones.

4) Encouraging natural disease protection and resistance.Since a tree or plant is considered the home for soil microorganisms and since these microbes rely on the sugars produced by the plant for their survival, bacteria and fungi have evolved mechanisms to protect their “home” at all costs. First, beneficial bacteria and fungi can actually produce compounds that directly kill pathogens. In fact, many anti-fungal or anti-bacterial compounds that we use for human health, including penicillin, came from bacteria or fungi.  In nature, these compounds are used by beneficials to kill plant pathogens. Second, maintaining soil biology with numerous beneficial organisms will out-compete pathogens as both compete for many of the same resources.  A diverse and healthy population of beneficial microorganisms makes it more difficult for pathogens to become established. In simple terms, it’s a numbers game. Lastly, pests such as insects evolved to eat dead or decaying plant manner. Pests starve on healthy plants – this is the basis of the concept of trophobiosis. Plants, trees, or turf that are healthier and more nutrient dense will be better fit to naturally fight off disease and predators, and pathogenic insects simply can’t digest healthily tissue. Plants are similar to humans in this way. People that eat well and are healthy get sick less often. Through the actions of soil biology directly increasing a plant, tree, or turf’s health through better nutrition, plants are better able and more fit to fight off pressures from disease and pests.

Sustainability through Biology

Maintaining healthy soil biology is much more sustainable than traditional practices that rely on high levels of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides such as fungicides, insecticides, etc. Most importantly for landscapers and growers, practices that build and maintain a healthy soil food web have been proven to be less expensive in the long-term. These systems also require less maintenance and labor-sustained microbial communities do the work for you. Part 2 of this article will cover the actual practices that can be employed to stimulate (bio-stimulation) or supplement (bio-supplementation) soil biology for improved care at home and by professional landscapers.

About the Author

Joe Magazzi, MS, is the president and co-founder of GreenEarth Agriculture, a company that provides eco-friendly products and consulting services to landcare professionals and farmers. He has been involved in the research and development of microbial-based products for use in turf care and agriculture for many years. Joe has a Master’s degree in genetics (with a microbiology focus) from the University of Connecticut-Storrs, and his research has been published in scientific journals such as The New England Journal of Medicine. Joe may be reached at joe@greenearthag.com.

Try propagating your own plants via softwood cuttings

4 May

Softwood cuttings is one of the easiest ways to propagate plants. This type of propagation is easily learned by the home gardener, and can be a fun and rewarding way to increase the number of plants in your garden. Unlike propagating by seed, cuttings produce an exact genetic clone of the parent plant. So if you love the shell pink Abutilon in your garden, take some cuttings and soon you will have additional plants to install or give as gifts to friends.

The only difference between a softwood cutting and a hardwood cutting is the time of year you take the cutting. Both are of the current seasons growth, and it is always recommended that the cuttings you use are from the current year.

In the Bay Area, propagation of softwood cuttings is usually done in early to mid-spring. The best time to take softwood cuttings is just as the wood begins to harden. If taken earlier, the plant material is too soft and prone to drying out. If taken later, the rooting process happens less readily. The easiest way to tell if a plant is producing good softwood is to look at a branch. The softwood will look and feel soft, and is easily crushed between your fingers. The softwood will lead down to the hardwood, which is has a rough bark (or bark-like) covering and is hard to crush.

The key to softwood cuttings is to keep them consistently moist. Here is the step by step process:

  1. Purchase a good rooting mix (I like a 50/50 mix of peat moss and Pearlite), and some small pots with drainage holes in the bottom.
  2. Once you have determined where the softwood is, take a 4 – 8 inch cutting of the softwood. If there is no 4 inch piece of softwood, you may have a difficult time getting the cutting to root.
  3. Strip the leaves off the bottom half to third of the stem.
  4. Dip the stripped part of the stem in water and then in a rooting hormone like Rootone (available at any garden center or nursery). The stripped part of the stem should be covered by the rooting hormone.
  5. Stick your finger in the rooting mix to make a hole.
  6. Stick the cutting in the hole and push the dirt around the cutting with your fingers. Do this carefully so that the rooting hormone will stay on the stem.
  7. Place the cutting in indirect light and try to keep it moist and in a humid environment.
  8. Your cutting may look unhappy initially, and not all cuttings will survive. Just keep an eye on your cuttings and moisten them as needed, and that will give them the best chance of growing into healthy plants.

Not all plants can be successfully propagated by softwood cuttings. Here are some popular Bay Area plants that are easily propagated in this manner:

Abutilon (Flowering Maple)

Butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii)

Camellia

Ceanothus

Clematis

Daphne

Hydrangeas

Japanese maples (Acer palmatum cvs.)

Mock orange (Philadelphus coronarius)

Rhododendron

Smoke tree (Cotinus coggygria)

Wisteria

So go ahead and give this method of propagation a try. Experiment. You may be surprised at how easily you are able to produce healthy new plants for your garden.

Growing Echinacea for Beauty and Health

17 Apr

Many of my clients are interested in incorporating plants into then garden that are “useful” as well as beautiful. If  this interests you, Coneflower (Echinacea) might be a good plant to start with.

Echinacea is a tough, colorful perennial from central and eastern North America, where it is found growing in prairies and open wooded areas. The name Echinacea is derived from the Greek word echino, meaning sea urchin, because the foliage of this plant forms a spiny central rosette. Echinacea was widely used in traditional Native American cultures, and today the herbal preparations made from this plant are among the most popular in North American and Europe, used to boost the immune system and ward off infections. It is also sometimes used as a laxative.

The flowers of Echinacea are daisy-like in form, with narrow petals and brownish orange dome-shaped centers, held on strong straight stems above  the clump of bristly foliage. There are 9 distinct species of Echinacea, the most common being E. purpurea. The plants are long blooming, and blossoms range in color from white to pink, purple, gold and rust.

Coneflowers are well suited to naturalistic gardens, where they will reseed if spent flowers are allowed to dry naturally and fall to the ground. Clumps spread slowly, and should be divided when they become crowded, usually every 3 or 4 years. Coneflowers like a sunny location with fertile soil that is well drained. In our area they prefer regular water during the dry season, but will tolerate some drought once established.

If you would like more information on Echinacea, and in particular on harvesting and preparing it for medicinal use, check out this useful article on the Garden Guides website: Garden Guides: Echinacea .

Plant Abutilon, and the hummingbirds will come!

24 Mar

One of my favorite plants for Bay Area gardens is Abutilon, commonly known as Flowering Maple or Chinese Bell Flower. In times past, this free-blooming, evergreen shrub was known as the parlor maple because the Victorians loved to display them in their homes.

Abutilon is a large genus of approximately 150 species of broadleaf, evergreen shrubs belonging to the mallow family Malvaceae. The genus is found in the tropical and sub-tropical regions of all continents, especially South America.

Abutilon can be grown almost anywhere as an annual, but in the Bay Area we are fortunate to be able to grow this gorgeous plant as a perennial. The upright, arching plants grow to 8-10 ft. tall and wide, but some hybrids are considerably smaller, and dwarf varieties are available. Broad maple-like leaves are green to yellow-green, and can range from small to large. Drooping bell-like blossoms range in color from white to pink, tangerine, orange, scarlet, and yellow. Abutilon likes warmth, but not a lot of really hot direct sun. Good drainage is essential; Abutilon is quite drought tolerant once established and does not like heavy wet soil.

In addition to offering up beautiful blooms almost year round, Abutilon is a great wildlife plant for the garden. Hummingbirds love the nectar, as do several species of butterflies.

Abutilon tends to become leggy, and requires regular pruning to develop an attractive shape. In early spring, cut back long branches to encourage bushiness. This plant blooms on new growth, so trim it throughout the season to encourage symmetry and better branching. This will result in more new wood and heavier flowering. If you get this right, your plant will produce dozens of flowers at a time. The weight of the blooms will cause the branches to arch gracefully.

Grasses for Shade Gardens

6 Mar

Ornamental grasses have become popular additions to Bay Area gardens, and for good reason. Grasses add color and texture to the garden palette, they create a natural feel that is particularly desirable for California gardens, and in general they are easy to establish and even easier to maintain.

 Most grasses like sun, but there are a few ornamental grasses that thrive in shady areas, and these can be used to great effect under trees and around other shade loving plants such as Rhododendrons, Camellias, and Japanese Maples.

Here are a few grasses and grass-like plants that will thrive in part to full shade:

Variegated Japanese Sedge (Carex hachijoensis ‘Evergold’) is a beautiful and easy evergreen grass that forms a low tufted mound of graceful dark green blades, each with a bright butter-yellow central stripe. This grass can be grown in sun or dappled shade; when grown in the shade it requires only occasional watering in the dry season. Large clumps can be divided, and this grass can be cut back in late fall or early winter to encourage fresh growth in the spring.

Variegated Dwarf Sedge (Carex morrowii ‘Ice Dance’) is also a good sedge for shady conditions, and will spread by rhizomes to form an attractive ground cover that  helps prevent weeds. This grass grows to 12 inches in height, with lush bright green leaves marked with yellow edges. Clusters of small white flowers bloom in summer.

Sweet Flag (Acorus) is an evergreen grass-like plant that thrives in both sun and shade. ‘Albovariegatus’ reaches about 6 inches in height with fan-like clusters of creamy white-striped green leaves. ‘Ogon’ grows to 12 inches and has green to yellow foliage edged with brilliant yellow. ‘Pusillus’ is only 3-5 inches in height, with attractive dark green leaves, and works well between stepping-stones. It will tolerate light foot traffic.

Mondo Grass (Ophiopogon) is another small evergreen grass-like plant that is easy and can be grown in shady conditions. This one comes in several colors, including black and very dark purple. ‘Ebknizam’ bears dramatic purplish-black foliage, and has clusters of small white flowers in summer, while ‘Nigrescens’ is one of the few plants with true black foliage. ‘Silver Mist’ has lavender flowers in summer followed by metallic blue fruit, and the foliage is dark green with fine white variegation.

Hakone Grass, also known as Japanese Forest Grass (Hakonechloa) is a winter deciduous grass that grows 12 to 24 inches in height, and forms a slow growing mound of thin, often variegated blades. In summer, delicate seed heads dance above the foliage. This is an elegant, graceful grass that thrives in light shade.

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